Sunday, November 11, 2007

A Visit to St. Mitrophan's and NM Grand-Duchess Elizabeth

(with new section added to the end of this article)
Today I visited the third church Matushka Irina had written down for me--the Church of St. Mitrophan of Voronezh. Here is his icon, near the top of the church, facing the main street.
Can you tell that the whole top half of the church had been destroyed by the Bolsheviks, and was rebuilt in the 1990's?

This one was the most like Holy Epiphany so far, in that it has only one altar and so the shape of the church inside is cross-shaped, and larger than some with 3 altars. The altar area was newly-done in mosaics, and the ceilings and walls were all newly frescoed like a Greek monastery (also similar to Holy Epiphany's frescoes).

This is the church's last priest before the Revolution, the Holy New Hieromartyr Vladimir Medvediuk. When he was ordained a priest and sent to this church in the 20's, he zealously guided his flock against the rampant revolutionary spirit, Renovationism, and atheism that existed. The Renovationists, who supported the Bolshevik regime, were forcefully seizing churches right and left. They tried to take Fr. Vladimir's church by waiting until he had left the church. In those days--as now once again in Russia--churches were open all day, every day. But Fr. Vladimir would not give them the chance: when he left for the day, he locked the church and took the keys home with him.

Failing this way, the Renovationists then invited him to their bishop. Fr. Vladimir went.

"Hand over the keys!" cried the bishop.

"I won't give them, Vladyka, I won't give them! answered Fr. Vladimir.

"I'll kill you! I'll kill you like a dog!"

"Kill me," answered the priest. "You and I will stand before the Throne of God together"

"Oh, look what a fellow we have here," said the bishop, but he didn't insist further. And the Renovationists didn't succeed in seizing the church.

In 1925 the authorities arrested him, and, showing him a far-fetched and invented accusation, they began to threaten him with imprisonment in a concentration camp. The only way he could be freed, they said, was to agree to collaborate with the OGPU. Fr. Vladimir agreed and was freed. The mission they gave him was basically regarding the locum tenens of the Patriarch, Metropolitan Peter, which he fulfilled; but the further he went the more his conscience bothered him and the more agonizing it was to endure his situation. Neither zealous serving in church nor pastoral conscienciousness could calm this burning spiritual pain. Finally Fr. Vladimir made up his mind to cease contact with the OGPU and went and confessed his sin to his spiritual father. In 1929 one of the OGPU investigators summoned him to an office in Great Lubianka and demanded an explanation. Fr. Vladimir explained that he was not going to work for them any longer. For 72 hours they tried to talk him into changing his mind, but Fr. Vladimir decisively refused, saying that it didn't matter anyway--he had already told the priest about everything in confession. On the 11th of December they arrested him for "divulging confidential information." On the 3rd of February 1930 the OGPU sentenced him to three years imprisonment in a concentration camp, which he served out in building the White Sea-Baltic Canal. In the meantime his family was evicted from their house, which is what he feared the most, but by God's providence they found refuge with another family. Fr. Vladimir was able to join them after his three years were up, but was arrested again and shot in December of 1937, and buried in a mass grave at Butovo Firing Range (Polygon). He was added to the number of the Holy New Confessors and Martyrs in the year 2000.

(Translated and/or summarized from days.pravoslavie.ru. There's more about two other New Martyrs in his Life, but I didn't have time here.)
________


(signing off now but will add Part Two of today's visit later to the end of this article.... Here it is:)
On the side of the church facing the courtyard, you can see an icon of Holy New Martyr Grand Duchess Elizabeth.

This church has a strong connection with St. Elizabeth: before the Revolution she had founded an orphanage nearby, and the church still supports orphans. It also established a Sisterhood in the name of St. Grand Duchess Elizabeth, carrying on her work: I saw quite a few women in church wearing white nursing headscarves, of the kind you would think of a nun wearing these days, with a red cross on the scarf at the forehead, and in the back, instead of being triangular and pointing downward, the scarf is cut straight across--again, like a nun's, only shorter and white. There was a poster on the church door, too, something about medical sisters (nurses). It was quite amazing to see such headgear--I hadn't seen anything like it in the United States since I visited the Catholic Mercy Hospital in Portland, Maine, when I was a child. The Church here in Russia appears to be very active in society. In this church there was, for example, not only boxes with slots on the top for donations for rebuilding the church and to help the sisterhood, but also a very large box smack in the middle of the narthex where you couldn't not notice it marked for orphans and homeless or poor people. There was also a box on the wall to contribute to their Orthodox radio station, "Blagovescheniye" -- "Annunciation." Among the offerings in the archives of this station, which you can download and listen to, is an interview with director Pavel Longin, talking about the film Ostrov.


It seems that there are several nearby churches that share rotating clergy and publish a common bulletin. Those who can read Russian can find out more about this very spiritually active group of parishes at http://www.blagodrevo.ru/.
Across the courtyard/garden from the church is another building, used for trapeza and clergy, and I think, church school. It's a very large brick building newly-built, and over just one place, there is a small onion-dome with a cross on top. One of the priests very kindly let me see inside, where there is a new chapel and baptistery dedicated to New Martyr Grand Duchess Elizabeth. Here is her icon in the corner, behind the Cross.




As I stood looking at this beautiful iconostas, I asked the priest if the chapel we were standing in was old. He replied no, it was all newly-built. I said, "Amazing--the icons look as if they are very old." "They are," he said. "Families took them and hid them when the Revolution broke out, and so they were saved. Then, when the church was re-opened in the 1990's, the people brought them back."
There is a beautiful children's book (in English) about this very thing, called The Miracle of St. Nicholas, telling about a newly-restored church in Russia and how, after the fall of communism, the whole parish, who had been in hiding, came back, each parishioner bringing back an icon or some other precious church belonging. On this day I saw an example of it. Here is the amazon.com web page for those who would like to read it to their children:
____
After visiting St. Mitrophan's, I returned home. It was a long walk back to the nearest Metro station, and all in all it took me an hour and a quarter to get back home. I took a rest for a while, then was delighted to find Namesday e-mails from family, and a call from friends at home, and even one from my iconographer-friend, Maria, at the parish of St. Nicholas v Klennikakh. All those warm wishes made my day truly wonderful--thank you all!
Till next time,
Dimitra

Friday, November 9, 2007

St. Dimitrios Day 26 October/8 November

Thanks to the fact that my students had a vacation this week, I did, too, so I was able to go to Vespers Wednesday night and to Liturgy Thursday morning :)


The church of St. Nicholas v Klennikakh even has a wall fresco of St. Dimitrios, shown here, in the smaller chapel of St. Nicholas.







The chapel looks something like this (but I think this picture was of one of the chapels downstairs....)














After Liturgy, I browsed the magazines in the church bookstore a little. There was an interesting one called "Orthodox Conversation" (Православная Беседа). As I thumbed through the pages, suddenly my eye caught a picture of someone familiar..... but who could it be, on the pages of a Russian magazine......?

Well, if it isn't Nikolai Lokhmatow of Holy Epiphany in Roslindale, Massachusetts, USA! Hello, Nikolai! :)

The picture was taken at the Sretensky Monastery, at, I presume, the Reunification events.

The distance between Moscow and Roslindale seemed to melt away.... Once again, I felt comforted--it's a small world, after all...

Of course, I bought this magazine :)

(I'll try to get a better picture in this spot later--I see the resolution isn't perfect.)


After leaving the church, I took the Metro to work to pick up my paycheck and to do a few other errands. As I arrived at the stop I get off at for work, Novoslobodskaya, I found myself much closer to the far wall of the station that I usually am, so I was able to get this picture of the mural on the wall. Like a lot of the Metro stations, it is left-over soviet art, but this piece is striking....


...because one can't help but notice the resemblance to the Virgin and Christ-Child.... and the Dove for the Holy Spirit...

and the inscription: "Peace in all the earth" is just so much like the Angelic Nativity song: "Peace on Earth," isn't it?

Furthermore, the hammer and sickle and star, though present as a technical necessity, are almost completely hidden.

(You can click on any photo to enlarge it.)


(Here's a better photograph from Wikipedia:)

I wondered.... could the artist have been a secret Christian, fighting to keep Holy Russia alive through his art, or was I just reading too much into it? I decided to look him up, and found the name was "Pavel Korin." Here is the article about him from Wikipedia. Was I right?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pavel_Korin

(After the Wikipedia article there is more to the blog entry for today....)


"Pavel Korin was born in the village of Palekh to a family of a professional icon-painter Dmitry Nikolaevich Korin on July 8 [O.S. June 25] 1892. In 1897, when Pavel was only five years old, his father died. In 1903-1907 he studied at the School for Icon Painting at Palekh getting a formal certificate as a professional icon-painter. In 1908 he moved to Moscow and until 1911 worked there at the Icon shop of the Don Monastery.
In 1911 he worked as an apprentice to Mikhail Nesterov on frescoes of The Intercession Church at the Convent of Martha and Mary (Marfo-Mariinsky ) on Bolshaya Ordynka street in Moscow. Nesterov insisted that Korin gain a formal education in easel painting and arranged his admission to the Moscow School of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture in 1912. Pavel graduated from that school in 1916, having been a student of Konstantin Korovin and Leonid Pasternak.
In 1916 he worked on frescoes for the mausoleum of Grand Duchess Elizabeth Fyodorovna at The Intercession Church at the Convent of Martha and Mary. In accordance with the wishes of the Grand Duchess, he travelled to Yaroslavl and Rostov to study traditional frescoes of antique Russian churches.

Portrait of sculptor Sergey Konenkov, 1947
In February 1917 he started to work in his attic studio on Arbat Street in Moscow and worked there until 1934.
In 1918-1919 he taught at the 2nd State Art Studios (2-ые ГСХМ). In 1919-1920 he worked at the Anatomic theatre of Moscow State University, as he thought he as a painter needed deeper knowledge of the human anatomy. In the evenings he copied paintings and sculptures of the Museum of Fine Arts.
In 1923 he travelled over Northern Russia, visiting Vologda, Staraya Ladoga, Ferapontov Monastery, Novgorod. In 1926-1931 he worked as an instructor of painting classes for beginners at the Museum of Fine Arts.
In 1926 the Convent of Martha and Mary was closed by the Soviets and all the art there was to be destroyed. Pavel and his brother Alexander managed to smuggle out and save the iconostasis and some of the frescoes. On March 7 of that year he married Praskovya Tikhonovna Petrova, a disciple of the Convent of Martha and Mary.
In 1927 Korin's aquarelle Artist's studio and his oil landscape My Motherland were bought by the Tretyakov gallery, showing some recognition from the Soviets.
In 1931 Korin's studio was visited by Maxim Gorky, who supported Korin since. In 1932 Korin followed Gorky to Sorrento, painted Gorky's portrait and visited Italy and Germany.
In 1931 Korin started to work as the Head of the Restoration Shop of Museum of the Foreign Art (former Museum of Fine Arts later Pushkin Museum). He held this position for until 1959. After this he held the position of the Director of the State Central Art Restoration Works (ГЦРХМ) until his death. As one of the most senior Russian restorers of the time he contributed enormously to the saving and restoration of famous paintings.
In 1933 Korin moved to the studio on Malaya Pirogovka Street in Moscow where he worked until his death. Now the building is Korin's museum.
In the 1940s he painted many portraits of members of the Soviet Intelligentsia (including Leonid Leonidov, Mikhail Nesterov, Alexey Tolstoy, Kachalov and Nadezhda Peshkova (Gorky's daughter in law)). He painted the fresco Match to the Future for the Palace of Soviets in the Moscow Kremlin and a Triptych devoted to Alexander Nevsky.

Farewell to Rus, preparational drawing showing the composition, 1935-1959
In the 1950s Korin worked on mosaics for the Moscow Metro. His mosaics decorate the stations Komsomolskaya-Koltsevaya, Arbatskaya (Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya Line) and Novoslobodskaya, and also the Main Hall (Актовый Зал) of Moscow State University. He also won an impressive list of Soviet awards in the 1950s and 1960s:
Stalin Prize - 1954 for mosaics for the station Komsomolskaya-Koltsevaya,
Lenin Prize - 1963 for portraits of Martiros Saryan, group portrait of cartoonists Kukryniksy, Italian painter Renato Guttuso
Member of Academy of Arts of Soviet Union - since 1958
Gold medal on World's Fair at Brussels - 1958 for the portrait of Martiros Saryan,
People's Artist of the Russian SFSR 1958
People's Artist of the USSR - 1962 ()
Order of Lenin - 1967
Pavel Korin died in Moscow on November 22, 1967 and was buried in the Novodevichy Cemetery.

Photo of Korin's studio showing the canvas for the Farewell to Rus drawing, 1960s

[edit] Farewell to Rus
The biography of Korin shows an accomplished Soviet painter and a prominent art figure, but the job he had considered the main work of his life was left unfinished. During his student years Korin was impressed by the life of Alexander Ivanov, who spent most of his adult life on creating a single painting The Appearance of Christ before the People (1835-1857). Pavel decided that he should live by Ivanov's example and devote his whole life to a single large painting. He starts with preparing of a very accurate life size copy of Ivanov's masterpiece (1920-1925), the initial name for The Painting was Bless my Soul, Oh Lord (Благослови, душе моя, Господа).
In 1925 Korin witnessed the intercession of Patriarch Tikhon of Moscow in the Cathedral of the Dormition of Moscow Kremlin. All people of importance in the Russian Orthodox Church, usually suppressed by the Soviets, were present. After the event Pavel decided that his magnum opus would be named Requiem, or Requiem for Russia, and would depict the intercession of Patriarch Tikhon and show the Russia that was lost after the October Revolution.

Beggar, Etude for Farewell to Rus, 1933
Korin feverishly paints people present at the burial service for Tikhon, often the last survivors of families of Russian nobility, or dissident priests, soon to be destroyed. Rumors about the dangerous painting soon became a matter of NKVD interest. In 1931 Maxim Gorky advised Korin that the name Requiem for Russia was too strong to be accepted and recommended a change to Русь Уходящая - literally Rus that is going away, but usually translated as Farewell to Rus. Gorky argued that the painting showing the last parade of the Orthodox Church, showing the tragedy and at the same time the misery of all those people who soon will disappear into irrelevancy is an acceptable and even desirable for the Government. Korin agreed with the new name of the painting.
For forty years Korin worked on the painting. He produced dozens of large (more than the life size) well finished paintings that he preferred to name etudes for the Farewell to Rus masterpiece, worked on composition. He ordered a huge canvas, designed a special stretcher for it, spends years coating the canvas with multiple layers of the special underlays. Korin was combining the ancient methods of the icon paintings with the science of art restorations and claimed the painting prepared by his methods should survive hundreds, possibly thousands of years without the need for restoration.
He had not put a single brushstroke on the canvas - forty-two years of the preparational work was not enough for Pavel Korin. It might be considered an extreme case of procrastination, but the huge canvas became a popular art exhibit in the Korin Museum. Many consider it as an art masterpiece in its own right, similar to the Black Square of Kazimir Malevich."
________

Amazing, isn't it? I have more first-hand to show and tell about iconography and iconographers here and how the art of iconography was passed down from master to apprentice secretly during soviet times, but it will have to be for another day. Meanwhile....


One of my errands was to mail a card to Kisya and Olga Alexandrovna, who don't have Internet. I finally got up my courage to go into a post office and face the possibility of having to respond to an unintelligible-to-me stream of Russian. As in most places, there was a line. While I was waiting, I looked at the display in the window where the clerk was. (Sorry, this is a pretty bad no-flash cell phone picture.) In the window were all sorts of greeting cards--for the New Year, and yes, even Christmas, birthdays and what-have-you. The reason I took the picture, however, is to be found in the lower right-hand corner: there, among all the greeting cards, was an icon of St. Panteleimon, also for sale! How do you know that you live in an Orthodox country? When you can go buy an icon at the Post Office! :)

That's all for now, folks, it's getting late. Stay tuned and my love to everyone.
___________


An Unexpected Friend...


(for James) Here is the icon of St. John the Russian on the wall of the entry-way downstairs in the church of St. Nicholas "v Klennikakh." As I wrote below, when I saw his icon, I stopped feeling so homesick. I thought: it could not be without meaning that I am seeing him here...

They tell me he is revered here, along with St. Silouan of Mt. Athos.

I would have put this picture up earlier, but when I went to get the photo from my camera, I couldn't find it for a while. Sorry for the delay!

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

The New Holiday


We just had a long weekend here, celebrating the new holiday of "Day of National Unity," on the 4th of November. It replaces the old celebration of the anniversary of the October Revolution on November 7. Note that the new holiday is not on November 7th, but November 4th. This is none other than the day of the Kazan' Icon of the Mother of God, when She defeated the Poles. The statue commemorates Dmitry Pozharsky and Kuzma Minin, who rallied Russia's volunteer army against the Polish invaders during the Time of Troubles in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. "The Commemoration of the Deliverance of Moscow From the Poles by the Kazan Icon was established in gratitude for the deliverance of Moscow and all Russia from the incursion of the Polish in 1612. The end of the sixteenth and beginning of the seventeenth centuries is known in Russian history as "the Time of Troubles." The country suffered the onslaught of Polish armies, which scoffed at the Orthodox Faith, plundering and burning churches, cities and villages. Through deceit they succeeded in taking Moscow. In response to the appeal of His Holiness Patriarch Hermogenes (May 12), the Russian people rose up in defense of its native land. From Kazan, the wonderworking icon of the Mother of God was sent to the army headed by Prince Demetrius Pozharsky."
Is there a silent, parallel message being given here, about the deliverance from a more recent "Time of Troubles"? Слава Богу за Его великую милость! Glory to God for His great mercy!

Friday, November 2, 2007

The Little Things in Life







I had just about run out of my favorite make-up, but fortunately, found some foundation of the same beautiful Evening-in-Paris-like packaging as a recently-found lipstick. FFleur, it's called. Not sure what the extra "f" is for...

So, is it made in Paris?


Russia?


Taiwan?



What???
Casper, Wyoming?!
You mean "foundation" is the "foundation" for Russian-American relations...? ;)